This season’s muse was Faye Wong, the Hong Kong singer-songwriter and actress known for her audaciously avant-garde stage outfits. However, as the curtain rose, it became clear that FETICO had interpreted Wong’s energy with surprising elegance, filtered through the quietly voyeuristic vector of French conceptual artist Sophie Calle’s photobook, The Hotel. The luxurious interiors of Calle’s empty Vienna hotel rooms could be detected in FETICO’s wallpaper-like peony prints, geometric lace detail evoking bed linens, and gathered tops undulating to the rhythm of curtain pleats.

Of course, there’s no silencing FETICO’s signature sensual and cutting-edge touch. Denim—a popular material this fashion week—delighted in refreshingly fetishistic dresses, encapsulating the unapologetically provocative vision that sets FETICO apart as a unique presence on the Tokyo fashion landscape.

Funayama tends to eschew bold colors and patterns, allowing her individuality to shine through in her astute eye for material and cuts. As a result, the slightest splash of accent color takes on a greater dynamism, as a deliberate choice that dictates the impression of the collection as a whole. This season, an otherwise stoic monotone color palette was punctuated by a memorable, full-body vermillion number in the final look. As a designer always seeking to up the ante, perhaps the finale signifies a fiery break from the past and a harbinger of another enticing new chapter to come.