

KAMIYA
Review
KAMIYA emerged last year as a successor to MYne, a label founded in 2015 with a focus on the real pulse of the streets. The brand’s reinvention, under the helm of former MYne creative director Koji Kamiya, has entailed an editorial pivot toward the designer’s own roots in music and culture, particularly his affinity for the Black music scene. This season, KAMIYA made its highly anticipated runway debut, signaling the brand’s ambitions to vault into the world of high fashion.
The show, held in a cavernous parking garage near Japan’s National Stadium, began with a dramatic bang. As curtain time drew near, a pickup truck suddenly burst through a stunt wall set up in the venue, blasting music from giant speakers strapped to its cargo bed.
The first model followed through the gaping maw in a distressed oversized cable-knit paired with a slashed black denim overskirt layered nonchalantly over slouchy black denim jeans. The ensemble was pulled together by a black fedora and a purple face covering reminiscent of a balaclava. It was an impeccably executed opening look, both emblematic of KAMIYA’s house style and encapsulating the tone of the entire collection.
Above all, this season showcased Kamiya’s knack for texture and mood, demonstrated by an innovative handling of synthetic materials. Consider, for example, the natural fade on the collection’s blousons and cargo pants, created through an involved cross-dyeing process that used two separate baths to color the polyester and nylon fibers. Another standout was a shirt featuring a distinct python-esque texture achieved by baking and drying the fabric at high temperatures to fix the dye.
Combining a flair for showmanship and an openness to experimenting with material, this season’s collection showed that Kamiya is a promising young designer, driven to make an impact.
