As a relative newcomer in the constellation of Tokyo fashion, KANAKO SAKAI’s ascent may seem rather meteoric. However, the brand’s promise as a new aesthetic voice was already evident from the inaugural S/S 2022 collection, which radiated elegance and intellect in its twist on standard silhouettes and unexpected color combinations. This season’s show was no exception. Executed with confidence and style, perhaps one could be forgiven for double-checking their notes to confirm that this was indeed the brand’s runway debut.

While KANAKO SAKAI is primarily a womenswear brand, the show opened with a male model, clad in a pristine white pantsuit with delicate lace peeking out of deep slits on the front of the jacket. The casting was an inspired choice that set the tone for this year’s gender-flexible collection. All told, nearly half of the models were male, strutting down the catwalk in skirts, dresses, and lace in a visual paean to the show’s theme, “Wearing Freedom.”

KANAKO SAKAI also stands out for its references to ancestral Japanese visual culture. Consider, for example, the splash effects reminiscent of sumi-e ink paintings, abstract tie-dye patterns in the vein of bokashi-zome ombré-dyes, hexagonal tortoiseshell patterns worthy of luxurious kimono sashes, and the use of vivid vermillion accents. The show culminated in a distinctive checkerboard motif rendered in black and iridescent bluish-green fabric, woven from mother of pearl—an opulent detail reportedly inspired by an encounter with traditional raden-ori textiles. In less capable hands, such allusion can easily devolve into pastiche. However, the designer cleverly counterbalanced these traditional elements with modern lamé flourishes, sheer fabric, and distressed denim, demonstrating remarkable maturity so early on in her career.

Living up to a promise to deliver “clean cuts, coupled with an innovative juxtaposition of diverse material and color,” the collection was a strong start to the week’s festivities, further solidifying designer Kanako Sakai’s standing as a rising star.