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SHINYAKOZUKA

Review

SHINYAKOZUKA debuted in S/S 2018 with understated designs that provided a slight twist on standard items and silhouettes. Over the intervening years, the brand has blossomed, leaning into a narrative lyricism that has continued to evolve and mature with each passing season.

Since presenting his first runway show in the S/S 2022 season, designer Shinya Kozuka has eschewed the word “collection” in favor of the editorial “issue.” For his latest Issue #04, Kozuka chose the theme “Wonderful Wonder,” inspired by the sights and people met on his nocturnal wanderings through the city with a beer in hand.


The show unfolded like a fairytale in a whimsical sequence of light blue lace, Toile de Jouy style prints of faraway lands, pointed jester hats, and angelic wings. A pullover featuring a charming portrait of a dog—perhaps a canine friend from Kozuka’s walks—was one of many superb prints this season, drawn from spontaneous sketches and text scribbled like emotionally-charged, stream of consciousness poetry. From prints to dyes, jacquards, and patchworks, the collection reaffirmed the brand’s embrace of graphical elements that has featured more prominently since Issue #01.


The collection was given extra depth by an expressive color palette rich in blue and gold. Kozuka said he felt a curious affinity for Yves Klein blue when designing this season, only to realize that it echoed the blue and gold cans of the Suntory Premium Malt’s beer that he sips on his walks. The resulting show served up a refreshing breath of fresh air on a tropical Tokyo night, replete with ice cold beers for all in attendance.


Brand

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